In August 2018, the Coca-Cola Company
(TCCC) announced that it would acquire Moxie, a small regional soda brand known
mostly in New England, for an undisclosed amount.1,2 Moxie is one of the oldest surviving bottled soda brands in the United States* and
predates Coca-Cola and Pepsi-Cola (see “History of Moxie” section).3
Its unusual flavor, which has been described as bittersweet, reportedly owes
largely to the presence of gentian (Gentiana
spp., Gentianaceae) root extract.2-4
TCCC’s purchase of Moxie is part of a steady stream of acquisitions by the Atlanta-based
beverage behemoth, which now produces more than 800 beverages in the United
States across 100 brands.1,5 But this and some other recent acquisitions
may seem surprising. After all, while Moxie reportedly produced about 225,000
cases of its soda in 2017,1-2 TCCC sold a prodigious 29.2
billion unit cases.6†
The company reportedly wants to separate bottling operations from its corporate
umbrella. Both TCCC and its bottling partner, Coca-Cola of Northern New England
(CCNNE), which previously owned Moxie, agreed it made sense to transfer
ownership of the brand to TCCC.2 “CCNNE purchased the Moxie brand,
well known for its ‘distinctively different’ flavor, over a decade ago in order
to bring its roots back to New England,” wrote Nick Martin, a CCNNE spokesman
(email, September 7, 2018). “TCCC’s acquisition will provide the Moxie brand
with the resources needed to evolve for a new generation of drinkers.”
A general, gradual decline in sales of sugary beverages in the Unites States (as
many consumers have started reducing consumption of sugar and/or high-fructose
corn syrup) may be largely responsible for TCCC’s overall acquisition flurry.
In October 2015, The New York Times reported
that “Over the last 20 years, sales of full-calorie soda in the United States
have plummeted by more than 25 percent.” Many TCCC brands reportedly have
declined. So, it is likely that the company has made a habit of buying “the
little guy” (brands like Moxie) and sometimes “the big guy” to maintain market
share.1
TCCC reportedly wants to be “a total beverage company” and has claimed it aims
to focus on more low- and no-sugar beverage options.5,7 It
apparently supports the World Health Organization’s 2015 sugar guideline, which
includes a recommendation for adults and children to reduce daily intake of
free sugars‡ to less than 10% of total energy intake,
or less than 5% (roughly 25 grams) for additional health benefits.7-8
Previously, Moxie was known for its low-sugar content, with 25 grams per can1
(this author ordered some and observed that it now contains 37 grams of sugar
per can, however). Regular Moxie also contains less caffeine than other brands,
including Dr Pepper, Coca-Cola, and Pepsi-Cola.9
Moxie’s taste apparently is quite polarizing. An article in HuffPost notes: “Moxie lovers are just
slightly less effusive than Moxie haters. We’re pretty sure we’ve never met
anyone who thinks this oddly bittersweet soda is ‘just okay.’” Some describe it
as “root beer on steroids” and some have compared it to bubblegum.4
Even Moxie’s website admits it can be “an acquired taste.”9 This
author thinks it has an interesting and pleasant smell and tastes like root
beer with a bitter aftertaste: sweet at first, then noticeably bitter.
That taste apparently is not going anywhere. TCCC “will ensure Moxie stays true
to its Northeastern roots, as it has done with many other fan-favorite and
regional brands,” Martin wrote. To Moxie lovers, that is a relief. In addition,
Moxie will continue to be produced in Londonderry, New Hampshire.2
TCCC has no immediate plans to change Moxie distribution, but at least one
industry expert thinks TCCC can incrementally increase annual sales of Moxie to
500,000 cases.1-2 And, publicity from the transaction may prompt a
new group of Americans to finally acquire a taste for one of the oldest soda
brands in the United States. The distinct drink can be ordered online at
drinkmoxie.com.9
History of Moxie
In the late 1800s, Augustin Thompson, a homeopathic physician, US Civil War
veteran, playwright, and native of Union, Maine, created Moxie in Lowell,
Massachusetts. He wanted to introduce a “cure-all” without cocaine or alcohol
and reportedly included gentian root extract, cinchona (Cinchona spp., Rubiaceae) bark extract, sassafras (Sassafras albidum, Lauraceae) root bark
extract (the primary botanical flavoring used in “root beer”), caramel, and
other ingredients in his early formulation.3,9 Moxie’s formulation
has changed over the years, and it now includes high-fructose corn syrup, like
many sodas.4
“Moxie Nerve Food,” as it was originally called, was invented and patented in
1885, according to Moxie’s website, which also states that there is no evidence
that it was ever commercially produced before then.9 Dr Pepper was
introduced the same year, and Coca-Cola followed in 1886.3 Moxie distribution
initially was attempted in Atlanta, Chicago, and Denver, but the soda never
really became successful outside the Northeast. Early on, Moxie was introduced
in lozenge form, but that wasn’t successful.9
Like other early sodas in the United States, Moxie originally was intended as a
medicine, not a pleasure drink, and it was once the subject of many far-fetched
curative claims. Carbonated liquids, or tonics, had been thought to have medicinal
benefits for centuries. Thompson claimed that Moxie could address imbecility,
helplessness, and paralysis, among other conditions.3,10 An early ad
stated: “Moxie Nerve Food is a most healthful drink, strengthens the nerves and
gives you a good appetite.”9 These claims, however, stopped with the
passage and implementation of the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906.3,10
Gentian, the source of Moxie’s main ingredient, is a name that refers to species
in the genus Gentiana. There are about
40 or 50 species in the genus, all of which seem to contain the bitter principles
for which gentian is known. King Gentius of Illyria (on the Balkan Peninsula),
who died sometime after 167 BCE and for whom the genus was later named,
reportedly was the first to discover the plant’s medicinal value and gave it to
his army to treat a mysterious fever. Since then, gentian (mainly Gentiana lutea) root has been widely
used for medicinal purposes, including to treat digestive issues and wounds. It
also has long been used to flavor alcoholic drinks, perhaps especially in
Germany and Switzerland, where it was used to make beer before hops (Humulus lupulus, Cannabaceae) was
introduced.11-12 So, it is
not entirely surprising that Thompson used gentian to make Moxie (and added
sugar to help mask its bitterness).3
Moxie was a big hit at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition (the St. Louis World’s
Fair) in 1904.10 In 1920, it outsold Coca-Cola, probably largely
because of promotional strategies that included a Moxie Song, magazine ads,
Moxiemobiles, and the Moxie Man (who still appears on Moxie products).3
US President Calvin Coolidge reportedly was a fan of Moxie, and, in 1923,
celebrated his inauguration with a cold glass of the soda. It was also popular
with Pulitzer Prize winner E.B. White, author of Charlotte’s Web. In the 1950s, baseball great Ted Williams, left
fielder for the Boston Red Sox, was a spokesman for the brand. And in 2005, the
state of Maine made Moxie its official state soft drink.9
“Moxie” has come to mean nerve, verve, spirit, spunk, etc. Some say Moxie gives
the drinker moxie, and some say it requires moxie to drink Moxie. Perhaps
surprisingly though, the name of the soda seems to have preceded this use of
the word.3 It is possible that “moxie” derives from the Abenaki term
for “dark water,” which would be an understandable description of the soda. The
Abenaki are a Native American tribe and First Nation from New England, Quebec,
and the Canadian Maritime provinces. “Moxie” figures in waterway names in Maine,
including Moxie Falls (one of New England’s highest waterfalls).13 The
soda’s early curative claims (including that it “strengthens the nerves”) may
explain today’s common definition of the term.3
Coca-Cola’s
Botanical Beverages
Moxie now joins TCCC’s portfolio of
beverage brands with notable plant-derived ingredients. In 2016, the company
launched Aquarius Vive, which is available in Spain and includes baobab (Adansonia spp., Malvaceae) extract.
The baobab tree, sometimes called “the tree of life,” is native to
sub-Saharan Africa, and its fruits are rich in calcium and vitamin C.14-15
In 2018, TCCC introduced a version of
Coca-Cola that is sweetened completely with a purified extract of the leaves
of the South American herb stevia (Stevia
rebaudiana, Asteraceae) and no other sweeteners. This product, first
launched in New Zealand, reportedly avoids the bitterness that can be caused
by steviol glycosides (sweet constituents of stevia).16
TCCC also distributes Core Power, a
high-protein, cow’s milk-based recovery shake for fitness enthusiasts that
reportedly is sweetened with monk fruit (Siraitia
grosvenorii), a vine in the gourd (Cucurbitaceae) family that is native
to China.17 One of monk fruit’s constituents, mogroside V, is
approximately 250 times sweeter than sucrose (common table sugar). Inclusion
of these plant-derived ingredients in TCCC beverages likely reflects its
attempts to offer options with less sugar and fewer calories without
compromising taste.
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* Vernors, a ginger ale brand that was started in
Detroit, is older than Moxie.
† TCCC
defines a unit case as 24 8-ounce bottles.
‡ According to the World
Health Organization, “free sugars include monosaccharides and disaccharides
added to foods and beverages by the manufacturer, cook or consumer, and sugars
naturally present in honey, syrups, fruit juices and fruit juice concentrates.”
Photo credits: Top photo ©2018 Matt Magruder All remaining photos courtesy of the Coca-Cola of Northern New England
References
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