Issue:
115
Page: 24-27
In the Land of Kesum
by Chris Kilham
HerbalGram.
2017; American Botanical Council
Editor’s note: This article was first published in the July 2017 issue
of HerbalEGram, the American Botanical Council’s (ABC’s) monthly e-newsletter.
Readers can find the original article, which features eight video clips
produced by Chris Kilham, on ABC’s website.
At 85 years of age, Ismail looks fit and strong. The former
Malaysian military commando now runs a small farm, overseeing a kesum (Persicaria
minor syn. Polygonum minus, Polygonaceae) cultivation program that provides a
metric ton (roughly 2,200 pounds) of the fresh herb to local markets every day.
Ismail’s wife, Su, is more hands-on, personally working the harvest and keeping
watch over other harvesters and the small group of workers who bundle bunches
of fresh kesum plants with rubber bands.
This kesum farm is purportedly one of the largest of its
kind, just a half-hour drive from Malaysia’s largest city Kuala Lumpur, near
the famous Batu caves in Gombak. Kesum requires 90 days to grow to maturity
from seed, according to Ismail. The aromatic herb, also known as laksa leaf, is
popular in Southeast Asian cookery, loves water, and is best cultivated like
rice (Oryza sativa, Poaceae) in paddies. In the case of Ismail’s farm, the
paddy is fed by a stream that flows out of a dense rainforest.
It is January 2017, and I am traveling in the company of Nik
Fahmi and Tengku Sharir of Biotropics Malaysia, a Malaysian government-owned
botanical extraction and marketing company that specializes in plants native to
the country. Due to an increased interest in the health benefits of kesum
leaves, the government operation has taken an interest in this plant. As we
continue our exploration of kesum, various other members of the Biotropics team
will join us. Our plan is to investigate this popular savory herb, and to meet
with people who understand its broad culinary and medicinal uses. Our visit to
the kesum farm kicks off a week of traveling the countryside.
I stoop to pick a couple of leaves of fresh kesum that is
one week from harvest. Rolling the leaves between my thumb and forefinger
releases aromatic compounds that smell like a blend of oregano (Origanum
vulgare, Lamiaceae) and basil (Ocimum basilicum, Lamiaceae), with some other
notes mixed in. It is an aroma I recognize from Malaysian, Thai, and Vietnamese
dishes. The plant is a slender creeping shrub with climbing branches that
stretch 1-1.5 meters (3.3-4.9 feet), and the green leaves are long and
lanceolate. In Malaysia and in the US Department of Agriculture’s PLANTS
database, kesum is also called pygmy smart weed.1
After walking through several acres of cultivated kesum, we
are led to a large shed where men are bundling kesum into bunches and listening
to loud music. The men work quickly, converting large piles of the freshly
harvested herb into bunches that will be sold in local markets later that day.
The turnaround is fast. Kesum is picked, bundled, trucked to market, and sold
fresh.
The leaf of kesum is used in numerous popular dishes in the
traditional cuisines of Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, and Indonesia. The name “laksa
leaf” refers to its use in the traditional spicy noodle soup dish laksa. It is
also known in Malaysian cuisine as an ingredient in ulam, or salad, and is
eaten finely sliced with other raw vegetables. It is a main ingredient in the
mango (Mangifera indica, Anacardiaceae)-based salad kerabu, and is a principal
flavor in the rice dish nasi ulam.2
The leaf of kesum is known to contain an array of
antioxidant compounds, including flavonoids, aliphatic aldehydes, and phenols,
such as rutin, coumaric acid, quercetin, and gallic acid.3-5 Studies by Baharum
et al. detected 48 compounds in the essential oil of kesum using mass
spectrometry.6 These studies and the work by Vikram et al. provide greater
insight into the complexity of the leaves.3
Published chemical analyses and in vitro pharmacological
studies suggest that kesum leaves have antibacterial, antifungal, antioxidant,
antiviral, cytotoxic, and cytoprotective properties.2,3
The Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM) in Kepong,
Selangor, sits amid 544 hectares (roughly 1,344 acres) of landscaped grounds
and verdant forest, and is a brief drive from the center of Kuala Lumpur.
Surrounded by Bukit Lagong Forest Reserve, FRIM is Malaysia’s hub for forestry
research and conservation. The FRIM herbarium contains more than 350,000
voucher samples that feature the flora of peninsular Malaysia and Sabah.
Researchers at FRIM investigate a wide array of plants, from Malaysian trees to
food crops endemic to the region, and the center in Selangor oversees research
stations in various parts of Malaysia.
At the ethnobotany department of FRIM, researcher Tan Ai Lee
shares the latest developments on kesum. The plant is undergoing a name change,
we are informed, from Polygonum minus to Persicaria minor. We subsequently
confirm this through correspondence with the International Plant Names Index
(IPNI). According to IPNI Editor Kanchi Gandhi of Harvard University: “Polygonum
minus and Persicaria minor: both are correct names, and it is up to an
individual to accept” (email, January 23, 2017).
According to Lee, FRIM has taken the unusual position of
developing two kesum-based health product concepts, neither of which was being
sold in the marketplace at the time of our visit. We are shown packaging,
literature, and product samples. The first, called Kezo Kesum Leaves Seasoning,
offers a convenient way to season local dishes with a mixture of dried kesum
leaves and sea salt. The second product, called Digesto Digestive Drink, is an
“antioxidant digestive beverage.” According to the FRIM literature accompanying
this product: “Traditional medicine claims that a decoction of the fresh leaves
of kesum is taken as a remedy for indigestion, constipation, flatulence and as
a remedy for stomach pains.”
Launching products is a new idea for FRIM, the staff of
which has not previously engaged in commercial enterprises of this type. A
couple of the staff members there expressed to us that marketing health
products was an endeavor far removed from their usual course of work.
Lee said that the FRIM product development program with
kesum reflects the high regard with which FRIM researchers assess this
traditional herb.
Traditional Malaysian Medicine Wisdom: A Conversation with Datin Sharifah Anisah
Datin Sharifah Anisah is popularly regarded as an expert on
traditional Malaysian medicine, with a focus on women’s health. The subject of
numerous articles, Datin Sharifah first provided herb-based therapies and spa
treatments in the 1960s. She lectures widely on herbal approaches to health
care, has appeared in popular Malaysian publications, and received the Jati
Wanita (Teak Women) Award in 2003 from the United Malays National Organization
(UMNO).
On a shaded cottage porch at Taman Botani Negara Shah Alam
(TBNSA), a botanical garden where visitors can also stay in reconstructed
traditional wooden Malaysian houses, Datin Sharifah and I sit to discuss
traditional uses of kesum. The location seems perfect for our conversation.
TBNSA sports forest acreage, plantations, and gardens.
“In our country, kesum is widely used by Malaysians,” she
tells me. “The Malays and the Chinese use it in their food. They believe that
kesum is part of health and beauty.”
Datin Sharifah explains that kesum is often added to fish,
and that in this manner the herb is a valuable digestive cleansing agent. “We
believe that kesum is very good for internal cleansing. It helps for
flatulence, you know, ‘wind.’”
According to Datin Sharifah, kesum is often taken as an
infusion for medicinal purposes, and is typically mixed with other herbs. “The
Malays use it for the internal cleansing, especially for mothers after birth,”
she said. “It helps to prevent and overcome postpartum problems.”
From a cosmetic standpoint, she noted that “kesum is often
used for the skin, especially for stretch marks.”
For external use, she explained, the kesum leaves are ground
into a paste and applied directly to skin. “You make the paste and you add in
rice, and sometimes you add in turmeric [Curcuma longa, Zingiberaceae], and
sometimes tamarind [Tamarindus indica, Fabaceae] juice. It is very effective to
heal the stretch marks.”
Over the course of an hour, Datin Sharifah shared with me
various traditional Malaysian approaches to the use of kesum and other herbs,
for a broad range of health needs, from relieving indigestion and ulcers to
enhancing vaginal health. I noted that her easy manner and broad knowledge of
traditional herbal preparations and their uses made Datin Sharifah Anisah a
treasure, much in the way that Amazonian shamans are considered “living
libraries.”
Cooking with Kesum: A Discussion with Chef Ismail Ahmad
Malaysia, with its diverse regional cuisines, is not only a
foodie paradise, but also a land where excellent chefs can make a reputation
for themselves. Among the celebrated chefs in the country, Ismail Ahmad stands
out as one of the most beloved and well-known. Flamboyant, funny, creative, and
smart, Chef Ismail runs Restaurant Rebung in Kuala Lumpur, a mecca for those
who seek authentic Malaysian country food. At noon sharp, when the doors of the
restaurant open, a crowd streams in, mostly women in hijab, their destination
being the seemingly endless buffet.
Chef Ismail attempts modesty, but all the locals seem to
know his celebrity, and patrons of the Restaurant Rebung look for him just to
shake his hand and express thanks. Chef Ismail has appeared on the Asian Food
Channel, Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations,” “Yan Can Cook,” “Aroma,” “Sri
Murni,” “Poh’s Kitchen,” “Hey Good Cooking,” “Wok and Roll,” and a number of
other food-related television programs.
The food at his restaurant is something to see: the
vegetable dishes, soups, salads, various rice preparations, curries of all
types, broiled and otherwise prepared fish and meats — every dish offers a
different color, texture, and fragrance than the ones around it. There is magic
in this cookery, which is aided by the herbs that Ismail grows on the
restaurant terrace, and by his upbringing in the Malaysian countryside where he
learned about herbs and cookery from his grandmother.
“My grandparents brought me up with organics, things that
grow around the garden like pumpkins [Cucurbita pepo, Cucurbitaceae], bananas [Musa
spp., Musaceae], cassava [Manihot esculenta, Euphorbiaceae], turmeric, fresh
coconut [Cocos nucifera, Arecaceae], and river fishes,” Ismail explains. “It
was very rare that we had meat.”
“What were some of the foods that were your favorites when
you were a kid?” I ask.
“Oh, I love pumpkin; I love young bananas; oh, I love young
jackfruit [Artocarpus heterophyllus, Moraceae]. My grandmother would make
curries, you know.”
“Was your grandmother a great cook?”
“She was limited because she did not travel around, but she
cooked the best village food.”
Ismail beams when he talks about his grandmother.
On a table before us, Ismail has laid out in bowls all of
the ingredients needed to make the mango salad kerabu, which uses a large
portion of kesum. “Normally a salad like this we eat when the weather outside
is too hot, and we want something fresh and crunchy…. Kesum is my main
ingredient. The leaf, you shred it very fine.”
As I watch Ismail perform his culinary magic, he describes
every ingredient, and how all the ingredients are put together, as he concocts
the salad. When he is done, three women who call themselves “The Fit Ladies of
Kuala Lumpur” and I sample the salad. It is savory, citrusy, and fresh. We all
pronounce it delicious. One of the Fit Ladies gets a bit teary-eyed, and
comments that she hasn’t tasted a dish like this since she was a young girl.
We fly to Kota Bharu, south of Kuala Lumpur in Kelantan
state, to visit the legendary Pasar Siti Khadijah, a very large and colorful
market run almost entirely by women. The dry market features household goods,
knives, brooms, and all manner of general supplies, while the wet market
features fish, meat, fruits, vegetables, herbs, and spices. A mezzanine level
affords a colorful view of all the food stalls, where a seemingly endless array
of fruits, vegetables, and spices are displayed in large piles.
We make our way into the wet market, and immediately spot
large piles of kesum stacked at almost every stall. As we stand near one stall,
a woman approaches the vendor, and purchases a generous armload of kesum. We
follow her upstairs to the restaurant area, and watch her finely chop the pile
of kesum for the salads that will be served over the next few hours. She laughs
at me as I take her photo. I kid her a bit, and that makes her chop faster. She
seems to enjoy the moment.
After observing the food preparation, we purchase a few of
the local dishes prepared by women running small stands and restaurants at the
Pasar Siti Khadijah. I make sure to order something with kesum: an ulam, an
aromatic and tangy salad with other finely-sliced vegetables, hot chiles (Capsicum
spp., Solanaceae), salt, and a hint of lime (Citrus hystrix, Rutaceae) — very
nice.
Investigating Kesum: An Interview with Annie George, MD
Back in Kuala Lumpur, I sit with Annie George, MD, senior
manager of science and clinical trials at Biotropics, where investigation into
the properties of kesum has been ongoing for a few years. I asked Annie: “I’m
curious to know, of all the herbs you could investigate in Malaysia, what made
you choose kesum?”
“Back in the year 2011, we were actually investigating
several of the well-known herbs in Malaysia, also looking at the salads
consumed by the people, and we tested them for antioxidant activity initially.
We found that kesum itself has very high antioxidant values,” she said.
The high antioxidant value of kesum, as determined by
standard ORAC* testing, was the first piece of information that set kesum apart
from the other herbs being studied.
She continued: “What was very interesting was that it has
this quercetin-3-O-glucuronide, and this particular compound has been shown to
reduce beta amyloids, and beta amyloids, you find that a lot in patients with
Alzheimer’s.”
Annie teamed up with Suzana Shahar, PhD, head of research at
the Faculty of Health at the National University of Malaysia (Universiti
Kebangsaan Malaysia). Suzana's work focuses on dietary practices that help
maintain good health and protect against degenerative diseases. Annie and
Suzana thought that kesum seemed like the right candidate for a study on
cognition. If it showed activity, it might help the elderly.
The possible cognitive effects of kesum were put to the test
in a study of 35 healthy women, half of whom were given a concentrated water
extract of kesum (20:1 ratio) daily (BioKesum Biotropics), while the other half
received a placebo (maltodextrin). At the beginning of the study, after three
weeks, and after six weeks, the subjects participated in a series of
psychological and intelligence tests. The kesum extract group scored higher in
overall good mood, short-term memory, and IQ. Several parameters of cognitive
function also improved. This 2015 study, published in the medical journal Clinical
Interventions in Aging, has piqued interest in the popular herb.7 Living up to
its folk name “smart weed,” kesum appears to act as a nootropic, enhancing
cognitive function. Both Annie and Suzana acknowledge that additional studies may
bolster this use, but they are happy with the results of this preliminary
study.
My week of chasing kesum in Kuala Lumpur and other parts of
Malaysia revealed several things. First, I was already familiar with the flavor
and aroma of kesum, but didn’t know it yet: The herb was immediately
recognizable once I smelled it and put it into my mouth. Second, the fresh herb
brightens up dishes and makes a terrific salad ingredient. Finally, the herb is
long-established as a traditional remedy, especially for digestive issues, but
for others, too. The potential cognitive benefits of kesum, as investigated in
the 2015 study, may prove to be consistent with the herb’s “smart weed”
moniker.
Considering kesum’s traditional use as a food, its presumed
and observed safety, and its various known biological activities, it isn’t a
stretch to suggest that it may be smart to consume this herb.
*ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity)
is an in vitro laboratory assay of the antioxidant value of a substance, and
does not necessarily directly relate to the actual antioxidant activity of a
substance when ingested by humans.
References
- Polygonum minus Huds. United States Department of Agriculture
Natural Resources Conservation Service website. Available at: https://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=POMI22.
Accessed July 10, 2017.
- Christapher
PV, Parasuraman S, Christina JMA, Asmawi MZ, Vikneswaran M. Review on Polygonum
minus. Huds, a commonly used food additive in Southeast Asia. Pharmacognosy
Research. 2015;7(1):1-6. doi:10.4103/0974-8490.147125.
- Vikram
P, Chiruvella KK, Ripain IHA, Arifullah M. A recent review on phytochemical
constituents and medicinal properties of kesum (Polygonum minus Huds.). Asian
Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine. 2014;4(6):430-435.
doi:10.12980/APJTB.4.2014C1255.
- Urones
JG, Marcos IS, Pérez BG, Barcala PB. Flavonoids from Polygonum minus. Phytochemistry.
1990;29:3687-3689.
- Yaacob
KB. Kesom oil — a natural source of aliphatic aldehydes. Perfum Flavor.
1987;12:27–30.
- Baharum
SN, Bunawan H, Ghani MA, Mustapha WAW, Noor NM. Analysis of the chemical
composition of the essential oil of Polygonum minus Huds. using two-dimensional
gas chromatography-time-of-flight mass spectrometry (GC-TOF MS). Molecules. 2010
Oct 12;15(10):7006-7015.
- Shahar S, Aziz AF, Ismail
SNA, et al. The effect of Polygonum minus extract on cognitive and
psychosocial parameters according to mood status among middle-aged women: a
randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Clin Interv Aging.
2015 Sep 22;10:15
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