Issue:
94
Page: 73-76
The Tea Horse Road: China’s Ancient Trade Road to Tibet
by Mary Lou Heiss
HerbalGram.
2012; American Botanical Council
The
Tea Horse Road: China’s Ancient Trade Road to Tibet by Selena
Ahmed and Michael Freeman. Bangkok, Thailand: River Books Co. Ltd.; 2011.
Hardcover; 340 pages. ISBN: 978-9749863930. $65.00. Available in ABC’s online store. (Catalog # B585)
“Tea Horse Road is a narrative of
politics, economy, culture, and health. It is about ascending empire, a desire
for the exotic, and a more humble quest for energy, well-being, and
livelihood.”
So
begins the tale of this book. As the book explores an extensive network of
physical pathways and small local routes that came to be collectively known as
the Tea Horse Road. For centuries, this road carried tea out of the forests of
Yunnan Province, China, south to Tibet, Nepal, India, and Burma.
An
astonishing feat abounding with staggering perils and danger, the Tea Horse
Road was so important that a former trade route—the Southwest Silk Road (Xi’nan Sichouzhilu), which connected
China with neighboring countries (and along which goods such as silk, jade,
wool, furs, salt, and silver were transported from east to west and back
again)—was renamed the Tea Horse Road (Chama
Dao) after tea became the most sought-after commodity that traveled the
route.
Beginning in the 7th century, the Tea Horse Road transported tea over the
Himalayas by caravans of men and mules. This road served this essential duty until the mid-20th century when paved, motorized highways made the
transport of tea faster and easier and rendered the perilous old routes obsolete.
This
book is imposing in size (340 pages) and considerably heavy. At first glance it
appears as though it might be just another pretty coffee-table picture book.
Indeed, Michael Freeman’s wonderful black-and-white photographs appear
throughout and offer stark contrast to vivid color images of the rugged
landscape and hearty people who live in this area of China and Tibet.
But
readers who sit and linger with this book will find that it contains riches.
Well-written, concise text effectively introduces the reader to this colorful
part of the world and the importance that both the Tea Horse Road and tea have
had to the people who have populated this region for generations.
Yunnan
Province has a wealth of natural resources, a grand history, unique cultures,
and one of China’s most treasured teas. For me, what sets this book apart from
other books I have read on the topic of the Tea Horse Road is the author’s use
of the present to help understand the past. In the spirit of the meandering
local side paths of the Tea Horse Road that brought traders and tea to small
pockets of local populations, the author, too, brings the reader along
divergent paths and into the lives and cultures of people in Yunnan, Sichuan,
Tibet, Burma, and India who were and still are affected by the Tea Horse Road.
I
like the layout of the book and the chapter designations. The story moves from
place to place, adding bits of relevant information, rather than just following
a historical timeline. And I am especially pleased to see the full-sized map
positioned in the early pages that clearly illustrates the routes of the Tea
Horse Road. I think that maps are essential, and I appreciate editors and
publishers who understand how helpful maps are to readers.
Selena
Ahmed, co-author with photographer Michael Freeman, is an ethnobotanist who has
conducted research in Yunnan for years. Her particular interest is in the
villages of Yunnan and the tea production systems in place there.
As
such, she understands that the Tea Horse Road did not exist in isolation from
its surroundings and that its location was not happenstance, but that it
developed because of many factors particular to Yunnan. By taking a long and
wide look at the history and culture of this place, she breathes life into her
narrative by discussing much more than just the history of the tea road itself.
For
instance, we learn about the tea that traveled over the Tea Horse Road—what we
call pu-erh today. Since earliest
recorded time, tea has been made in Southwest China with leaves plucked from
large leaf varieties of tea bushes or trees (Camellia
sinensis, Theaceae). From those
early days until now, tea has evolved from a crude, simple food to a medicine,
a tonic, and ultimately to a pleasurable beverage. Tea underwent profound
changes brought about by dramatic weather as it moved along the Tea Horse Road,
and those changes most certainly influenced how the tea was processed after
that fact became known.
Readers
learn the story of pu-erh and why its importance to the people of this region
continues today. The best pu-erh is still made using traditional processes and
by following certain criteria in leaf plucking and tea manufacturing and
storage of the tea after production.
Yunnan’s
teas (there are green and black teas, in addition to pu-erh) are unique because
of many variables: terroir (place) of
the region, which includes climate, geography, soil conditions, humidity, and
rain patterns, and also because the Mekong River has played a pivotal role in
keeping this area vital. Over time, many cultural groups have navigated along
this waterway mingling tea seeds and tea culture with them as they traveled
from the old homelands to new ones in both upland and lowland areas.
Many
of these ethnic groups (Akha, Dai, Hani, Jinuo, and others) trace their roots
to ancestors who have lived in these forests for centuries. The 12 Tea
Producing Mountains (a reference to the most famous tea growing mountains where
many of these ethnic groups live) still maintain old-growth tea tree forests
(multi-generational descendants of wild-growing, indigenous tea trees). This is
in contrast to the large tea factories and cultivated tea gardens (once
operated by the Chinese government in the 20th century but now
privately owned) that are located further down the mountains near the cities.
For
some of these people and their villages, the old tea trees are their patrimony
and their children’s inheritance. These trees are a link to their ancestors who
took care of the tea trees and made distinctive tea of their own cultural
preference from these large-sized tea leaves. This region claims the oldest
association between humans and the tea bush. Ancestors of these ethnic groups
grew and nurtured ancient tea trees and consumed tea before China existed as a
unified state.
The
biodiversity in Yunnan’s tea forests stands in opposition to the intensive
mono-cultural practices of modern tea farming. The message here is that much
can be learned from the tea farmers in the old-growth tea forests, and that
intensive tea-growing practices, in its haste to bring more product to market
faster, can lead to the destruction of land, genetically diverse plants, and in
some cases, cultural practices.
The
author introduces the reader to some of the mountain- and hill-dwelling ethnic
people who populate this region; compelling photographs bring the reader into
their lives, creating the feeling that we are experiencing a small measure of
their culture and the hardships they face living in these stunning but remote
places. These are the faces of many of the people who make these incredible teas
by following traditional, learned practices.
In
addition to the story of the tea, Tea
Horse Road is the story of the men (muleteers) and their mules that
traveled long and perilous journeys from Yunnan and Sichuan over dangerous
roads in hostile weather conditions with their precious cargoes of tea bound
for Tibet, Nepal, and later, India and Burma. It took many months for the
caravans to make a round-trip journey, laden with goods for Tibet one way and
goods bound for China on the return journey.
As
the author writes: “the task was strenuous and the terrain unforgiving.” The
stories of these journeys defy belief, yet some of these men are still alive to
tell them. Michael Freeman’s photographs of some of the few men still alive
from those days and the terrain over which they traveled give proof to wary
disbelievers.
By
the end of this book, readers have been treated to a story with many
intertwined and nuanced layers and one that has elements worthy of an epic
novel: an astonishing commodity, stunning and dramatic geographic locations,
rugged people, and traditional ways of life and cultures that survive today.
I
have traveled in Yunnan Province learning about tea, and I am still in awe of
everything about this province. From the link between the tea and the tea
plants, the plants to the environment, the environment to the ways of the
people, and the people to their culture, religions, and their tea-drinking
habits, I can say honestly that there is no other tea place in China quite like
it. Reading this book and luxuriating in the photographs brought me back to
tea-producing villages in Yunnan Province that I have visited. I am inspired to
return and to learn even more about this epic chapter of tea culture.
–Mary Lou Heiss
Co-owner, Tea
Trekker
Co-author, The Story of Tea,
The Tea Enthusiast’s Handbook
|